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Tonto Trail
Red Canyon to Cottonwood Creek

 

The Tonto trail begins (or ends - depending on which way you're heading) at the west end of the beach that has formed at the mouth of Red Canyon. This section of the Tonto Trail is probably the worst that you will encounter in its 70-odd mile length. As the Tonto Platform begins to climb away from the river the trail must climb along with it. The trail is steep and rocky as it traverses along and through the Hakatai Shale that is so predominant in the vicinity of Red Canyon. The trail continues to be difficult, climbing sometimes over and sometimes around the numerous rockfalls along its path, until it finally reaches the east side of Mineral Canyon. As long as you keep an eye out for the cairns you should not, however, have any problem in following it.

Once the trail enters Mineral Canyon it follows the contours about a mile or so back into it before turning east and heading down to start across it. Beware of the numerous feral burros trails in the area as you head across Mineral Canyon and look for the cairns that mark the trail instead. You should also be wary of following footprints if they seem to go astray as you may just be repeating someone else's mistake. Many of the old burro trails head up and down the canyon instead of across it and if you start following one you may end up back at the river.

On the other side of Mineral Canyon the trail will again ascend through the Hakatai Shale and climb to a spot called Shady Overhang which is just below and slightly east of Ayer Point at the head of a small, nameless, side canyon between Mineral and Hance Canyons. This makes a good rest stop to relax for a while from the climb out of Mineral. The view from this spot, looking back into Mineral Canyon, is very nice.

Beyond Shady Overhang the trail briefly descends into and then out of this nameless side canyon before finally climbing to the top of the Tonto Platform directly beneath Ayer Point. Now comes that section that really tests your worth, the long tedious contour into, around, and out of Hance Canyon, which seems to take forever, or perhaps slightly longer. The trail that comes out of Hance Canyon on the other side is perhaps only a half mile away when you first start into Hance, but you have to walk about 4 miles to get there. And a very long 4 miles at that. The trail does follow the contours for the most part through this section, which is good, and it doesn't descend to Hance Creek and the floor of Hance Canyon until it reaches the very back end, which is about two miles away. Before getting there you have one side canyon within Hance that you need to also contour around. The views along the trail from within Hance Canyon are magnificent. The depth of the canyon itself is difficult to comprehend and this is only a side canyon of the Grand Canyon. The cottonwood trees at the bottom look like little shrubs and the creek, if there is water in it, appears to be just a hairline.

When you finally do get to the back end of Hance the trail drops through the Tapeats Sandstone as it prepares to cross the creek. There are some excellent camping sites in this area if you are planning a layover day. If you are not staying over then it's a great spot to have lunch.

WARNING : Following Hance Creek to the Colorado is not an easy task. You should bring a rope and you should not attempt it alone. There a number of high dry falls that you will need to climb down or work your way around via various bypasses. There are no bypasses for the final drop-offs and you have no choice but to climb down.

On the other side of Hance the trail breaks away to the northwest and heads for the east arm of the Grandview Trail that descends from Horseshoe Mesa. Beyond that the trail heads north, heads out of Hance Canyon, and around the east arm of Horseshoe Mesa. Along this section you can see numerous other trails descending in Hance Canyon which I can only guess are also the work of the burros.

The next section is one of my favorites along the Tonto. The view from the head of Hance Canyon on this side, and the Colorado River flowing from the east, is magnificent. The sheer red walls of Horseshoe Mesa are also quite impressive. Within a ½ mile or so after passing front side of the east arm of Horseshoe Mesa you will come to the junction with the Cave of the Domes trail. This trail heads up the inside of the west arm of the mesa and links up with the Grandview Trail on top. Continuing on to the west the trail will begin to veer off to the south as it contours just below the west arm of Horseshoe Mesa and down into Cottonwood Creek.

Cottonwood Creek is a wonderful place to camp. The two times that I have been there, November 1992 and November 1993, I was completely alone and had the whole place to myself. Cottonwood Creek does not run year round and cannot be relied on for water. It was, however, flowing very nicely both times I have camped there. I had the additional benefit, in November of 1993, of being able to watch a total eclipse of the Moon from this spot and it was TOTAL-ly awesome.
 


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