We were up early and headed over to the El Tovar for breakfast. We discovered the El Tovar for breakfast during our last trip, in June 1998, and decided that we liked it a lot better than we did the Bright Angel Restaurant. The prices are a little higher but the quality of the food and the service is far superior to that of the Bright Angel. The coffee is also their own special blend and is fabulous. Robin had the Belgian Waffle with fresh (not canned) strawberries and I had the Sonoran Eggs. What a way to start a backpacking trip!
We took the 8:15 Kaibab Shuttle from the Bright Angel Lodge and after a couple of brief stops at the Backcountry Office and Yavapai Lodge we arrived at the South Kaibab Trail and started down at just before 9 am. By 10 am we were at Cedar Ridge and took a short 15-minute break there. The sun finally broke over the canyon rim and when we left Cedar Ridge it was already warm enough to loose our jackets.
At just before 11 am we reached the north side of O'Neill Butte and began negotiating the switchbacks that head down through the Redwall Limestone. We arrived at the Tonto Trail junction just after noon and had lunch there. At this point I decided to loose my sweatshirt as well and finished the hike in my T-shirt. It was a little cool to be just standing around in the T-shirt but it was fine once I was moving.
We started down again at 12:20 and arrived at the river at 1:45 PM. The Black Suspension Bridge was a welcome site as my toes were starting to hurt from the final leg of the descent. We arrived at Phantom Ranch at just around 2 PM, checked in at the cantina and settled into our hiker cabin. Robin was very happy to have a cabin for the first night of the trip. We had the 6:30 PM stew dinner at the Ranch that night and then went back to the Beer Hall for a while at 8 PM. We didn't stay long at the Beer Hall, as it was more crowded than I have ever seen it and there was no place to sit. We went back to our cabin and relaxed for a while before going to sleep.
|
Robin at the trailhead for the South Kaibab Trail
|
Approaching Cedar Ridge
|
View of the eastern canyon (Wotans Throne, Vishnu Temple) from Cedar Ridge
|
Robin taking a rest before beginning the descent through the Redwall
|
Pack mules coming up from Phantom Ranch
|
View of the Colorado River and Bright Angel Campground from just below 'The Tipoff'
|
Almost there - The Black Suspension Bridge
|
Our cabin for the first night at Phantom Ranch
|
|