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Hermit Hike |
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This report covers a three-day Grand Canyon trip I took in October, 1997. The first day of the trip I hiked the Hermit trail to Hermit Creek camp. The next day I left my tent and pack at Hermit Creek camp and day-hiked to Granite Rapids. The third day I returned to the south rim by way of the Hermit trail.
The distance from the trailhead to Hermit Creek camp is 7.8 miles. Over this distance, there is a change in elevation of 3,340 feet. The distance from Hermit Creek camp to Granite Rapids and back is 9 miles.
This was my fifth hiking trip in the Grand Canyon. Except for two trips to Clear Creek, all of my hiking in the Grand Canyon had been on the corridor trails. As is the case with most of my hikes, I was traveling solo.
I expected this to be my most challenging trip into the Grand Canyon, so I spent a little extra time in preparation. I have a number of hiking books on the Grand Canyon, and I reviewed them for information on the Hermit trail. I also read the trail reports in Bob Ribokas' Grand Canyon web site and corresponded with a number of persons on the "alt.backcountry" newsgroup. I hike year round and this was my fourth backpacking trip of the Summer/Fall, so I did not expect physical conditioning to be a problem.
When visiting the Grand Canyon, I always try to stay in a cabin at the Bright Angel Lodge. These cabins have a rustic character that seems to fit in well with the Canyon. I also like their location on the south rim and their reasonable cost. Unfortunately, many other visitors seem to share my enthusiasm for Bright Angel Lodge, which makes reservations difficult to obtain. Happily, I was able to reserve a cabin for both the evening before my trip and the evening of my return.
I'm an early riser by nature, generally waking by 5:00 or 5:30 a.m. In anticipation of this hike, I was up at 4:00 a.m. I would have preferred to eat breakfast at the Bright Angel Lodge restaurant, but it did not open until 6:30 a.m., and I wanted to get an early start. So, I had cereal in my cabin instead.
The Hermit trailhead is accessed from a dirt parking lot behind Hermit's Rest. During the offseason, you can drive to the trailhead. During the Summer, you have to take a shuttle bus or taxi. I arrived at the trailhead at 6:30 a.m.; sunrise was at 6:45. The weather was cool, but no rain was expected, and the predicted high within the Canyon was a very comfortable 80 degrees.
The initial 2.5 miles of the trail, extending from the trailhead to the Santa Maria Spring Resthouse, are relatively easy hiking. The trail is well defined and easy to follow, and steeper sections are moderated by switchbacks. Because the Hermit is an unmaintained trail, rock debris covers portions of the trail, so you have to watch your step. A really striking characteristic of this section of the trail is the sandstone that was inlaid in the trailbed in an elongated cobblestone pattern You can't help but wonder about the amount of labor involved in this work.
The Santa Maria Spring Resthouse was constructed by the railroad that built the Hermit trail. The resthouse has rock walls and a wooden roof The front of the resthouse is open but shade is provided by plants. Just before the resthouse, a pipe that appears to extend out of the Canyon wall provides a very small trickle of water. Filling a water bottle would take some time. Fortunately, someone had placed a plastic gallon jug under the pipe, so there was ample--if somewhat sickly looking--water available.
The section of the trail that extends from the Santa Maria Spring Resthouse to the Tonto platform is the most interesting and, in many ways, the most difficult portion of the hike. In many areas the trail is steep, narrow, and rocky. About a mile past the Santa Maria Spring Resthouse, slides have covered portions of the trail. Traversing these slide areas requires scrambling over and around boulders, and you have to watch for cairns that mark the way. I found crossing these slide areas to be easier than I had expected. A short distance later you reach the Cathedral Stairs. These are a series of tight and relatively steep switchbacks that descend the Redwall limestone. The trailbed is rocky and gravelly, so a slow descent with careful attention to the trail is necessary.
Before descending the Cathedral Stairs, there are a number of excellent view points where one can view the Canyon and Granite Gorge. These are excellent spots for a break and for photographs.
Once past the Cathedral Stairs and after descending a few additional switchbacks, you reach the junction of the Hermit and Tonto trails. You turn left (west) and after 1.2 miles reach Hermit Creek camp. The section of the Tonto trail between the Hermit trail and Hermit Creek camp is easy to follow and is level or gently sloping. A short distance before reaching the campsite, there is what trail reports identify as a stone foundation, although at the time I took it to be a corral. Trail reports also indicate that there is a small building used by park rangers, but I did not see it. Once past this location, there is a short and easy descent to the campsite.
Hermit Creek camp is a pleasant place. Individual camp sites are not marked, so you find an open area and set up your tent. The creek is located right by the campsite and has a good flow of water. There are two toilets located just upcanyon of the camp. The toilets need some work, as the wood floor, which supports the toilets, bends ominously as you walk on it (or at least it did under my 230 pounds).
When I first reached camp, no one else was about, although one other hiker had set up his tent. A squirrel was enjoying a lunch of the hiker's food, which was hung in a plastic bag about a foot off the ground. I moved the bag to the nearby metal post that is provided for the purpose.
Initially I selected a site for my tent that backed to the canyon wall and that is elevated above the rest of the camp. I believe this is the site that Sharon Spangler in her excellent book, "On Foot in the Grand Canyon," referred to as the "Dormitory." However, after a while I noticed that there were many loose rocks on the canyon wall, a number of which appeared ready to fall during the night on an unsuspecting camper. So, although feeling somewhat paranoid, but to insure an uninterrupted night sleep, I moved my tent to another location.
By about 2 o'clock I had finished setting up camp and, with little else to do, decided to hike down to Hermit Rapids. At one time there was apparently a trail that led from Hermit Creek camp to Hermit Rapids. However, it has not been maintained and only fragments remain, so it is easier to follow the creekbed down to the Colorado. This is an easy hike of about three miles that took me one and one-half hours (round trip). A short distance before reaching Hermit Rapids, I met the hiker who had set up camp before me. I related the problem with his food and the squirrel; he said he was hiking out the following day, so no great harm had been done.
Hermit Rapids is a neat place. I had never been at an actual rapids before, and I found the roar of the river to be surprisingly loud. I had originally intended to stay overnight at Hermit Rapids. It's probably best I didn't, as I suspect the noise of the river might have kept me awake.
I spoke with a couple that had just arrived at Hermit Rapids from Monument Creek camp. After leaving camp that morning, they took a wrong turn and accidentally followed the spur-trail to Granite Rapids, not realizing their mistake until they reached the Colorado. Although this made a short hike into a somewhat lengthy one, they got to see Granite Rapids and were none the worse for the side trip. I've taken many unplanned side trips of my own, so I could sympathize with them. After wandering around the beach for awhile and speaking with the leader of a rafting party, I started back.
When I returned to camp, I was surprised to find the place brimming with people. My new camp mates included a party of 11 Canadians, who had come down the Hermit and planned to hike out the Boucher trail, and a solo hiker, who would later be joined by a friend. There was also the hiker who had set up camp before I arrived. Although this is a lot of people for a small campsite, they were a friendly group, and I had interesting conversations with a number of them about trails in the Canyon, hiking gear, and other topics.
The day ended with a dinner of beef stick and ramen noodles, a cup of coffee, and a small cake for desert.
The previous day must have taken it's toll, as I slept until 6:00 a.m. After a breakfast of Raisin Bran, I secured my tent and pack, and hung my food in a stuff sack.
To reach Granite Rapids, you hike the Tonto trail for about 3 miles, after which you take a signed spur-trail that descends to the floor of Monument Creek canyon. You then follow this canyon down to the Colorado.
Between Hermit Creek camp and the spur-trail to Granite Rapids, the Tonto trail is easy to follow. It is often level and, with one exception, does not have any substantial ascents or descents. During the latter portion of this hike, you have good views of Granite Gorge and of the hoodoo-like monument from which Monument Creek received its name. Just before reaching the Granite Rapids spur-trail, the Tonto descends into and then out of the west fork of Monument Creek canyon. I had trouble locating the trail out of this canyon, as you have to hike down the canyon about one-quarter mile before reaching it. This is not evident from the USGS map.
The spur-trail that descends from the Tonto to the bottom of Monument Creek canyon is the only trail during this hike that gave me real pause. It is steep, rocky, and narrow. I had corresponded with a number of people who had hiked to Granite Rapids and none mentioned this segment of the trail as being difficult. Maybe I was just tired. The thought later occurred to me that it might be possible to bypass the spur-trail by following the west fork of Monument Creek canyon or perhaps the creekbed itself to the Colorado. If I go to Granite Rapids during a future trip, I'll look into this.
Once you reach the floor of Monument Creek canyon, the hike to Granite Rapids is relatively easy. In areas there are fragments of a trail, but it's just as easy to follow the creek.
After seeing Hermit Rapids the previous day, I found Granite Rapids to be something of a disappointment, as the rapids are shorter and quieter. I explored the beach for a short time and, after resting for about one-half hour, began my return trip.
Monument Creek camp is located on the Tonto trail about one-quarter mile east of the junction of the Tonto and Granite Rapids spur-trail. I had never been to this campsite, so I decided to have a look. Monument Creek camp is somewhat nondescript and is primarily a stopping point for persons hiking the Tonto. It has a toilet, and water is available from Monument Creek. Two of the hikers that had been at Hermit Creek camp the previous night were there, so I visited for a while.
The return trip to Hermit Creek went quickly. I was happy to find my pack, tent, and food undisturbed. There were two other hiking parties that used the camp that night. After a dinner of beef stick and ramen noodles, I read for an hour or so and retired.
My hike out of the Grand Canyon went without major incident. The weather was sunny but not hot, and I felt good. Within bounds, I like hard physical work, so the hike up Cathedral Stairs and other steep switchbacks was enjoyable. I live at sea level and the elevation of the south rim is about 6,500 feet, so I often find myself short of breath when hiking out the last mile or so of most south rim trails. My hike out the Hermit Trail was no exception.
About a mile from the south rim, I passed a hiking party of four males in their early 20's. One was talking nonstop in a very loud voice. Just about every sentence was punctuated with "This f_cking...." I dutifully thanked the God of the Grand Canyon that I didn't have to share a camp with this bunch.
This trip was one of my most enjoyable hikes in the Grand Canyon. I spent quite a bit of time preparing for this trip, and I was rewarded with a hike that was easier than expected and with none of the unpleasant surprises that can arise when hiking the Grand Canyon. The weather was great on all three days, and I enjoyed meeting and talking with other hikers.
Although Granite Rapids was something of a disappointment, I had never hiked the Tonto, so this was a worthwhile trip. Also, the "Monument" of Monument Creek is certainly worth seeing.
In reading trail reports on the Hermit, a common complaint concerns helicopters that overfly the area. Fortunately, this was not a problem.
After returning home, I started to ponder my next trip. While at Hermit Creek I spoke with a number of hikers who had come down the Boucher trail and all found it to be an enjoyable, although difficult, hike. And so, with a backcountry permit for the Boucher trail already in hand, and a cabin at Bright Angel Lodge already reserved, on April 1st I will be off to the Canyon again.
Best Wishes
Bob Anderson
Huntington Beach, CA
December 1997
Copyright © 1997 by Bob Anderson ( bobsmail@gte.net )
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